Vandenberg and Dry Tortuga Dives

Had a great 4 days with Captain Rick on the Ultimate Getaway. Left Wednesday night at 7...right on schedule...woke up Thursday AM at 5AM to hot coffee and breakfast of bacon and eggs. Dove 5 dives on the Vandenberg that day. Depth to the deck was 90 FSW. 146 FSW to the sand. Dove dives on nitrox from 26 to 32 so was able to hit the sand and check out the rudder on one dive. Lot's of fish, but very little benthic as yet. Ship is somewhere near 580 feet long. Good visibility and water temp in the low 80's. Some photos:

Next set of adventures ready to begin

On 19May2010 I leave aboard the Ultimate Getaway Dive Boat from Fort Myers Beach, Florida. We head out at 7PM for Key West and to spend Thursday diving the Vandenberg. Then we move on th the Marquesa Keys and the Dry Tortugas. In all four days of 6-8 dives per day. Arriving back in Fort Myers Beach Sunday 23May2010.

On Monday 24May2010 it's off to Santa Cruz, Bolivia for a month in the Bolivian and Brazilian Pantanal. This is trip based out of Florida Gulf Coast University to perform anthropology and wetlands research.

I anticipate internet access on most of the trips, so as long as the batteries are charged, the writing and stories will commence.

Cheers...it's time to blow some bubbles!

Steve

A Day on the Indian Ocean

We reserved the boat for one day during our weeks stay to participate in the local specialty...world class sport fishing. Rising in the pre-dawn hours...I hurried to the waterfront with my camera to see if I could get some good shots of the sunrise over the Indian Ocean. I was met there by a fellow traveller and sportsman from Columbia. We chatted for a short time before a large flock of birds flew by. I shot a few pictures as we watched in wonder..."What do you think those are?" I asked. "Pterodactyls I think" was the reply.

We boarded the boat shortly after dawn and proceeded out several miles in calm seas. The captain baited several lines and the adventure had begun. Almost immediately we began catching 5-10 lb skip-jack tuna...almost as fast as we could get our lines in the water. What a ball...what a fighter...it could take several minutes to land one! Then the yelling began..."this is the bait you bastards! Hurry up!"....Holy shit! We thought this was great...what were we in for?

On we went into the deep. Thank heavens the seas were flat...I had been known to be seasick before. Fortunately I had mentioned this to the captain a day or so before. Told him I usually take Dramamine, but it seldom worked. He told me I had been taking it wrong. "Take a full dose the night before, then a 1/2 dose just before getting on the boat," he advised. This I did and was thrilled with the success. Not a bit of that queasy feeling! And what a glorious day...flat calm...hotter than Haites. The captain threaded one of the tuna on a very large hook...and we began trolling.

We trolled three lines at various lengths and depths behind the boat. Marlin will attack the closest and shallowest first generally it seems. This alerts the crew to be ready as they hook them on the middle line typically. And the way the set the hook is pretty cool...hang on...as they hit the throttles to full. We shared chances as we gor several hits, until we finally hooked into a big Black Marlin...and I mean big! It was Doug's turn in the seat...thank God! All hell broke out on the boat. First the captain floored the throttles to hool the fish...all the while yelling in Swahili at the two local mates. Doug was placed in the seat with the fighting belt on and hooked to the rod...not the boat...just the rod. Then the boat was reversed. As fast as we could go in reverse, the captain throttled, all the while yelling, "reel!" And reel Doug did. The water coming over the transom in massive waves as the boat backed up to the fish. The black mates standing either side of him as the water sent his Raybans awash yelling to reel in Swahili...it was all Earl and I could do not to get in the way as we laughed in hysterics. Doug was horrified. Within a few minutes the fish was at the back of the boat...about a 600 lb monster...and about as "green" as it could be...meaning it was still fresh...not worn or tired at all for the fight. The captain turned to Doug, "Keep it or tag it?" Doug looked at me and I shrugged. "Keep it," he said.

Now we are some six or ten or maybe twelve thousand miles from home. What in hell are we going to do with a six hundred pound fish? Well the fight was on. They let the fish go from the back of the boat and Doug proceeded to fight that fish for some three hours or so. At one point the line was almost straight down behind the boat. Doug stated, "I thought they were supposed to jump." Just about at that point a fish came out of the water maybe three hundred yards behind the boat. "Look, there's another one!" exclaimed Doug. We laughed so hard our sides ached. "Reel!" was yelled.

Well after three hours the fish "sounded"...meaning it went deep. Billfish are known to go to the bottom and bury their bill in the sea floor to get away. Whether that was what happened or whether a large predator shark attacked the weary fish, we'll never know. All we knew was we would not be returning to port with the black flag flying indicating a successful trip. Though for us it was right out of the picture books...but wait...a National Geographic moment was yet to be had.

We were now late coming back in as the fight lasted so long. The sun was now setting over Africa. Doug, Earl, and I took up positions on the bow of the boat as we returned, reliving the day and enjoying a beer. And in the distance some 200 yards in front...humpback whales began breaching in their hunt for food. Now I have seen some sights...but this beat all. Here we were, three travellers from New England, having just fought a world class sport fish, sitting on the bow of a 46' Bertram, having a beer, and watching the sun set over Africa while humpback whales breach all around us. It doesn't get any better than that!

Watamu and the Big City of Malindi

Arriving at the then called Sportsman (now Ocean Sports) in Watamu was another surreal experience. You drive through what we call "third world" poverty, by young girls walking up to five miles with gallon buckets of water on their head, women carrying firewood on their heads (Note the men are all standing by the road watching...) and into a seaside retreat surrounded by a concrete wall with broken glass imbedded in the top as if to act as barbed wire. Here we would spend a week to ten days doing what we knew not as we were not supposed to be here.

As it turns out Watamu and the nearby larger village of Malindi are world class fishing destinations favored by ocean fishing sportsmen the world over. Who knew? It also had a very accommodating staff and facility for three wayward travellers on a Kenyan Safari. Three squares a day, afternoon high tea, private guest house for the three of us, and a bar. Oh yeah... and a 46 foot Bertram Sport Fisher and a swimming pool. And if you got bored...next door was the resort called Hemingways...pure first class for the distinguishing European. I guess this will do for a place to waste a little time.

Now in travelling to Kenya, you will have to get shots and take anti malarial drugs. I believe all three of us were taking mefloquine also known as Larium. No real side effects that we felt, but the fact that you had to take them at all, plus the fact that your bed came with a mosquito net, added a true sense of adventure to sleeping as you got "accustomed" to your new location. Getting in bed, while trying to make sure that you have all, and I mean all, corners and edges of your net carefully tucked under your mattress so that no varmints could get to you, was a challenge. Then make sure that as you lay in bed bathed in perspiration you don't have any body parts touching the net (certainly they could bite you through the net!). Real comfortable the first few nights. Doug and I slept upstairs and Earl downstairs in our Villa. The first morning I awoke to a strange kind of tinkling or rattling coming from downstairs. Kind of like a tea cup against a saucer. Rising and coming down, we found Earl who was and is always the master at finding the "special things", sitting on the front veranda with tea, coffee, scones, crumpets, etc. How great was this! It made me forget about the big fat blood filled mosquito on the inside of my net as I arose.

After delivering the morning tea, our assigned staff member asked where we would like our afternoon high tea served. Not quite in the swing of living as a British ex-pat, we advised we weren't sure...he would have to search us out. We were going to explore our new surroundings.

Another thing we were not aware of was that the hotel grounds were forbidden to the locals. What this did not address, however, was the beach itself. As soon as you step foot off the last step of the hotel onto the sand, you became fair game for the local merchant trade. Wood carvings, bracelets (no-doubt created from the copper wires from the sometimes working telecommunications system), camel rides, snorkeling tours...you name it. You had to walk fast to keep them behind you. We had been advised before coming that the heftier you are the wealthier you are...so our collective merchant brigade was always directed to Earl as "Poppa" and the one with all the money. Doug and I chuckled at this thought...I'm not sure Earl appreciated it though.

About 200 feet off shore there was a bommie or rock jutting out or the water. It was about 30 feet high and looked as though it could be scaled. After slight consideration we decided to venture to the rock...our first foot in the Indian Ocean. All along the shore there was seaweed at the wave /beach line. It was twenty or so feet wide and had to be crossed to get into the water. No problem. Next obstacle was that the water, which was only a few feet deep, was littered with wht I choose to call pock marks. These were hol,es about two feet in diameter and six inches to a foot deep. Perfect ankle damage terrain. We wandered out toward our goal, chatting away, and noticing that the surface of our target seemed to be fluid. Not until we were nearly on top of the rock did we realize that it was completely covered with crabs. Hundreds of thousands of crabs! Wasn't going to be anybody climbing on that rock today. So back we headed to shore. As we approached the seaweed barrier we noticed onother overlooked item...about every three feet on the ocean side of the seaweed...a moray eel poked out his head. Every three feet! Dead stop...how were we to cross this now? How long were these monsters that we unwittingly walked right through on our way out to sea? If you ran between two you were sure to step on the tail of one, right? After several minutes of discussion, survey, and distress Earl ran through...Doug followed. Neither were accosted. Took me a few more moments to build up confidence...then I busted through with all my speed. And I live to tell the story.

Next was breakfast...a good hearty English breakfast. Doug and Earl ordered eggs and several items of meat...eggs...Sixty Minutes...pallet of eggs in Nairobi...I ordered peeled fruit. That went on several days as I watched The guys enjoy their great breakfast and not show any signs of remorse. About the third day I joined them...and the eggs and meat were good...

"The Coast"

Well as it turns out we could not take the train. We went to the train station the day after we arrived in Nairobi to see if we could get tickets. Thought this train would be cool. It's the train Teddy Roosevelt had a chair strapped to the front of so he could hunt on the journey...anyway it travels overnite from Nairobi to Mombasa. First class...meaning you get a compartment...was sold out. We coud ride in the general compartment...whatever that was called...but decided it best not to ride with the chickens and other wildlife that would be in the car. So we were off to the plane. Nairobi to Mombasa...then a cab to Malindi.

Now one thing that needs to be explained about Kenya at that time. There are alot of people...alot of them were not working full time let's say...so they stand in groups along side the streets. Almost as if a parade was going to come by. Speaking not out of any racist bias...they were also primarily locals...meaning they were dark skinned. And they liked to stare at anything that went by that was of a different skin tone. I found out quickly what it may feel like to be a minority. In Mombasa, thousands of men were on the sides of the street. They stared at these three white boys from New England as they passed by in the rickety Mercedes (and it truly was rickety). Landing at the airport we were hustled out to this guys cab. Doug, in his infinite wisdom, told him he heard we could get to Malindi in one hour (Malindi is 200 Km away). Answer from the cabbie, " I don't know, but I'll try. I have a Mercedes." So in we git...and before we got out of the airport parking lot, the dashboard fell off in Doug's lap. Great! Let's race!

Remember we are in an old colony of England. This means you drive on the left. The road is not so good from Mombasa to Malindi. In many cases they were performing "road work". To notify you they put a sign in the middle of your lane with a skull and crossbones. A few hundred meters up they put bushes in the road...on your lane. A hundred or so meters ahead is another skull and crossbone sign stating "YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED". Do you think the cab slowed? Or anybody else for that matter? Luckily when a lorrie came head on, our cabbie had the wherewithall to go into the ditch, around the truck, and back on the road. All at 120Km per hour.

Now we were still in a time warp from the airplane. Let alone the cultural shock of being in Africa. So we were in a cross between absolute terror and those uncontrollable giggles you get when saturated with tiredness. This was about the time that Doug announced' "I saw my first breasts!" I guess he must have looked at a few National Geographics before we left. My reply, "it's about time...you are over forty."

Next stop Malindi and Watamu.

Off to Nairobi

Yellow immunization card and passport in hand, of we went to Nairobi. Kathy dropped us at Logan Airport in Boston for the 36 hour journey through London. Six hours overnight to London...change airports...wait 14 hours...overnight to Kenya.

Now Matt was getting kind of tired of his boss dressing him up like a circus monkey and showing off the animals to his "guests". An example of the types of guests...Mick Jagger...gives you an idea of the crowd we're heading into. Anyway, Matt got so tired of this that he gave his notice (unbeknownced to myself and Earl). As a result of "The Notice" the boss got some upset, and decided that we, as Matts guests, were now uninvited. Doug made the decision to advise us of this fact in the air...somewhere over Libya I believe! No shit...off to Africa for three weeks, and no place to stay or go. Now we're really having fun!

Deplaning in Nairobi, and first foot on the African continent was pretty surreal. I had to stop before we went down the grand staircase to customs and immigration to read the sign of items that "you may have in your luggage that are illegal and considered contriband in Kenya". Items like Readers Digest...you know that little magazine that you read in the doctor's office? Yup. And the list went on and on. I almost got pushed down the stairs by my fellow passengers while I read the list of items. When you go to Nairobi make sure you check out the sign...it is huge and right over your head as you hit the stairs.

Luggage in hand we were met by Matthew, Di, and Solo (short for Soloman, Matts Kenyan assistant at the ranch). We would spend the night in the Intercontinental Hotel in Nairobi, which would give us plenty of time to figure how we would handle the next three weeks with no "invited" place to go in Africa. First stop though, we were hungry. And in Nairobi you go to the "Carnivore" to eat your first night. Such delicacies as ostrich, zebra, buffalo...you get the idea.
And while on the way we drove into a ditch (and I got bloodied shins), saw a bicyclist get hit and thrown into the windshield of the car that hit him (and the driver got out and both the driver and a passerby threw him in the backseat and took off...let's assume to the hospital), and a pallet...a whole pallet... of eggs (yes chicken eggs) sitting outside, no cover in the sun on the equator. Now just the week before I watched a show on Sixty Minutes (a US news show) that went undercover in America...in grocery stores...with hidden cameras...to watch chicken eggs that had been surrepticiously tagged, to see how long they were left out of refridgeration. Imagine their dismay when Mike Walters (the shows host) popped out to ask indignantly why those eggs had been out of the 'fridge for a minute and a half! And here was a pallet...in 90 degree heat...full of eggs...in the sun. Guess I would pass on eggs for breakfast for the next three weeks.

Anyway, the trip was going to be full of adventure...I could tell. And here was the plan we concocted. Knowing that we were coming over...Matt's boss...who only came over every other month or so...was to make a visit to the ranch with his wife and some guests the first ten days of our visit. Undoubtedly this was designed to keep us away. So we would go to the coast...to Mombassa. Actually to a little known village 100km north of Mombassa called Watamu. Tomorrow we would either fly or take the train to Mombassa (the train was the one depicted in "The Ghost and The Darkness" with Michael Douglas about the man-eating lions they had to hunt down while they laid the tracks). We would stay at The Sportsman, a hotel on the coast that offered deep sea fishing on a world class scale. It was right next to a resort called Hemingways appropriately enough.

After spending the 9 days in Watamu, we would fly back to Nairobi. There we would go to Wilson Airport. Wilson Airport was a somewhat private airport. You see, Matt's boss had to leave tyhe ranch after his visit...and I forgot to mention that there is an airstrip on the ranch...big enough for those corporate jets. Bossman had one of his jets flying in to the ranch to pick him up. Ane we were going to sneak into the ranch on his jet! We would be wisked away and hidden while the plane refueled and loaded its rightful passengers. Then, with the knowledge of the pilots and all the staff at the ranch, we would have our uninvited and unbelievable visit to the Kenyan ranch...Ole Jogi.

Exotic Kenya Safari?

It started on a hot July day. It was summer in Maine and as was custom at Highland Lake on a hot summer day in early July, Doug and I were floating in the lake having a "toddy". For those who do not know Doug, he is my wife's cousin on her mother's side. Doug and I have been close for years...probably beginning back in around the mid-eighties when we started hunting for deer together. As newcomers to the deer hunting world, we were (and probably still are) looked at as "dweebs" that did not have a clue. This may have increased our bond...kind of like the idiots in some of those slapstick movies. Anyway, I digress...

A hot summer day in Maine, alcohol, and the ideas began to flow. It so happened that one of Doug's twin brothers went to school to be an elephant trainer. I know...who would have thought?
Matt (the brother) worked for a time at the San Diego Zoo doing his elephant training thing. Then by chance he somehow got hooked up with a very wealthy fellow that owned some 35,000 acres in central Kenya. Matt was offered...and he took...the position of "Animal Trainer" for this guy. At this time Matt and his wife Di were in Africa and had been for two or three years. They had a son, Adam, born while they were working there, and a new baby on the way. And...you guessed it...why don't we go to Africa? Of course! That's the ticket...we'll just hop on a plane and go to Africa and visit Matt...he'll put us up!

Well we spent the afternoon talking and dreaming and drinking and wiling away the weekend. By mid week I had forgotten all about the discussion. About Wednesday Doug called. It was all set. We would go in October for three weeks. Matt had gotten permission from his billionaire boss and we were set. All we needed was shots and visas and we were off. Holy shit! We were really going to Africa! You should also know this was about the time "Out of Africa" was out...you know...the movie with Merril Streep where she says, "I waaant to go to Aafrikaa". Well that's about all we could say for the next three months!

And then it got even better...we got Earl approved to go with us! Not only by Matt and his boss, but by Earl's wife! Next stop Nairobi!

Time to Share

Have been home from travels for about six months now, and have done quite a bit of reflecting on the adventures I have enjoyed with various travel partners from my wife, to relatives, to best friends. I think now it is time to share some of these interesting and colorful events with others.

Many have heard Earl or Doug and myself unfolding some of these stories over the brass rail at the local pub. Now we take the next step...and document them for posterity. As I was told on the last adventure to Africa...I tend to "mansize" things. I'm sure as you read these charming events, it would not even enter your imagination that any of the following events would have been exaggerated.

Follow to hear the stories of:

Thousands of Cockroaches
Shampoo of Bats
Russian Sheep Hearders
Hippopotomus Trails
Lenin's Tomb
"Green" Under Rembrandt

and many, many more.

HOME AT LAST

After about 36 hours of traveling, canceled flights, and delays, we arrived back in Boston about 6PM on February 24th. We spent the past few days in Tana buying the odd trinket or so and trying to avoid any political turmoil. I gotta say that traveling in a country whilst they are having a coup d'etat is quite an experience. And when you stand out like a sore thumb as a "Vahaza" (foreigner) does in Madagascar (skin color), it makes things all the more interesting. On Saturday night there was a curfew posted in the whole country for 8PM. There was a "manifestation" or opposition political demonstration scheduled to occur in the afternoon. At about a quarter to 8 all the power in the city went off. We were at our hotel and did not know what was to occur. We watched out the windows and listened for anything abnormal.

Turned out the government shut the power as a method to disburse the crowds. No problems occurred.

I met several new friends on this trip from all over the world. I lost some 40 pounds and got a wonderful tan. I got to spend over half of the "bad part" of winter as a beach bum living in a grass hut on the coast of the Mozambique Channel in the Indian Ocean. After 22 years of running a company, this was an ideal way to "decompress", "debrief", "chill out", or whatever other terms may be appropriate.

Madagascar is an incredibly interesting destination to visit. Unfortunately they have not saved their history in the form of museums or the like. Doug and I went to the main museum in the ex-prime ministers palace, which along with the Rova or Queens Palace, were torched in 1995 with severe damage. The Rove is still under reconstruction. The only real items left in the museum were colonial items from the French and English ruling days. By the way we were the only two in the museum and they had to turn the lights on for us. With 18 ethnic "tribes" that continue to not get along so well, the history is something you have to really reach for. When one tribe overrunns another they simply burn and destroy what is gained and so goes the history.

For interesting reading there is a tale of a 17th century shipwrecked sailor named Robert Drury who was held captive by various kingdoms in Madagascar for over fifteen years. He was 14 or so at the time of the shipwreck.His tale is thought to possible be the original Robinson Crusoe story.
Look it up.

I wish those I met and all the Malagasy well, and hope to return to the island next year.

Here are some photos to enjoy. More are on Facebook. Go to facebook and look me up at slhuss@gmail.com and We can get you access.

Steve Huss

Back in Tana

Doug and I arrived in Antananarivo this morning after an uneventful flight...that is if you disregard the being taken into the back office to pay the baggage overweight charge, the fact of absolutely no security screening to get on the plane, and the fact the flight left 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time.

It's a little cooler here in Tana. 80°F when we landed at 11AM. Dave Raza was at the airport to pick us up, a drive around tour of Tana, a brief stop for Doug at the Madagascar artesans outlet mall...it must come from Kathy and Bevs side... High pressure sales anyway..."Messieur...come into my shop...I give you a special price..."

Anyway we are in Tana...the heart of the rebellion and proposed civil war. Looks pretty quiet to us. You see a few military in the street with weapons slung over their shoulder, and we have had our passports checked by the gendarme, but feel no threat. There is a nationwide curfew at 8PM every night.

Dava took us by Al Harris' house and we spent a few minutes visiting with him...he's one of the originators of Blue Ventures. Lives in Tana and is working on his PHD on coral growth. Very nice guy, and worthwhile to stop by and say hi.

Tomorrow we are off to the east and north to see the Indri lemers and the east coast and Indian Ocean. Dave will drop us back at the airport the evening of the 23rd.

No photos today as I have technological issues with computer/camera cables.

Photos I hope

Cyclone forced this "Butre" or large boat up on shore. Instead of as we would calling insurance or otherwise, the entire village came out and pushed and pushed, several swam to the anchor and moved it out...certainly looked as an uphill battle. The wind and the waves were breaking over the boat. Lucky no one gor hurt...then a great cheer as the boat began to break free of its sand foothold and gradually moved back out to deeper waters. Truly an impressive site of the village working as one against a threat to their livelihood. Not something you would typically see at home.

The cyclone forced us out of our reed huts for one night as we weren't sure they could handle the storm. They did tho... no issues. We were out of the water 6 days. Morombe, a village 40 miles up the coast, was pretty well levelled. I have a short video of this that I will put on when I get home. Takes way to long to upload from here.

Yesterday was supposed to be the official day the "new" president and his administration took office. "old president would not allow. New president claims he has 80% of the military with him. Gets exciting to travel these days. Planning on only spending as much time in Antananarivo as necessary. Home in 6 days. Cheers!

Fish Belts and Benthic PIT's (Point Intersect Transect)

So we would dive each day at 6AM, 9AM, and 11AM. BV has 50 reef sites they are monitoring. Each site has stakes that are 10 meters apart in several locations up to 10 sets per site. On these stakes you place a 10 meter tape, and then swim the tape and write each type of benthic material every 20 centimeters (called a PIT)... such as hard coral and whether the hard coral was massive, digitate, encrusting, or foliose, soft coral, hydroids, sponges, tunicates, zooanthids, etc. Your dive buddy would swim along behind and inspect a 5 meter wide swath along the tape for invertabrates such as different types of urchins, sea cucumbers, or crown of thorn starfish.

Once all the benthic PIT's were done you did a fish belt which was to run a tape of 20 meters and leave it for 5 minutes. Then you come back and swim the tape writing all of the fish species and numbers of each in a 5 meter wide by 5 meter high swath. This list could be as few as a few species or as many as 25-30 or more species. In order to perform these surveys you had to pass a series of in water and computer tests on both benthic and fish identification. We had to learn how to positively identify 151 species of fish. These tests took a good two weeks to master, but all but one passed all the tests. It seemed for a while that you could never complete them, but soon it became second nature. Then you would find yoursezlf diving and naming everything you saw as you dove. Pretty cool.

Each dive we'd try to complete at least two fish belts or two PIT's. It requires 10 dives to complete a site, and each of the 50 sites is surveyed once per year. The data is entered in spreadsheets and transmitted to London where it is analyzed and reports are drawn up showing reef health and recovery if it had been damaged by overfishing or coral bleaching.

This picture shows a sulphur damsel and a yellow face butterfly fish. The second photo is a black backed butterfly.

Visibility on the dives varied due to weather and location of the site. On a good day viz was 30 meters or so, and a bad day it was 5-10 meters. We sat out for one week due to a cyclone hitting the area.

Overall I got in some 50-60 dives including one dive to 30 meters and one night dive. Average dives were in the 15 meter range and lasted 45 minutes. The night dive was particularly spectacular with lots of large unicorn fish, squid, shrimp and more. Getting attacked by a squid was really exciting and made me laugh pretty hard...almost spit out my regulator.

Other great sites were large schools of young yellow tail barracuda, swimming through shoals of hundereds of fish, crocodile fish, octopus, large gorgonian fans and the list goes on and on. No one on this trip saw any sharks...which was too bad as I think most if not all hoped to. We did run across 5 bottle nosed dolphins one day. Tried to swim with them, but they would have none of that and swam off. It was also amazing to see giant clams withe their gorgeous blue and pink colors inside, and various shells such as tritons and cowries alive and in their native habitat.

When you were not scheduled for a particular dive you were usually shore marshall or boat marshall which was part of the safety group for each dive. As boat marshall you assist the boat driver in monitoring the divers locations, log vital information for each diver(there were six on each dive), and handle the satellite phone and GPS in case of emergency. As shore marshall you monitored the other satellite phone and were on call for diver emergencies.

Local Pirogue

The boats the use are pirogues (pronounced peerog). At 5-6 AM the entire group of men from the village leave in their pirogue for a day of fishing. They use line by hand with a wooden lure, nets, and spears. I spoke with several about the catch. One man who was an eco guide in my class fished all day and caught two emperors (I had him point them out in the fish book). To me that sounded as if a frustrating day. Another went out with 6 men in two Pirogues with the big net. They cought 50 kilos of sargents...a small fish in the damsel family. They sold these immediately on return to the village for 600 ariary per kilo or 30,000 ariary. This equates to 15 US dollars...or 2.50 per man for the day of fishing. We are told that on average a Vezo fisherman make about 5000 ariary per day fishing...so this is right on average. Preety meager life for what seems like alot of hard work in the hot sun. But they know of no other life.

As they explained to me, they fish when they want, eat when they want, drink when they want, and sleep. This is the life of the Vezo. The women fish, or glean the shoreline for shellfish and octopus. They are not allowed to dive or go fishing in the pirogues. Only the men do this. In addition the women do all the other task functions of wood gathering, water retrieval, managing the kids ( of which most have alot). The average life span is some 34-36 years for men I am told. The President of the Velondriake and I had drinks at an epibar one evening. The Velondriake is a group of 25 villages enjoined to try to conserve the regions fishing assets and to try to attain other methods of generating income. He is a white haired nahooda (village elder) of 34 years of age. Needless to say the Vezo men I came into contact with were much impressed with the fact that I was of 53 years and still running up and down the steps carrying heavy dive gear and diving. Most if they make it beyond 40 years are retired and resigned to sitting in the shade playing dominoes in the afternoon before beginning their evening beer.

We spent much time in the village as the market was there, a store which has soup to nuts...including hardware nuts. I only saw one varmint

run by... a rat I think. Usually all huts are small dirt floor reed huts of a size of maybe 6X10 feet.

Very simple living.

Doug underwater

Certified at last! Congratulations Doug!

Doug got in 6 or 8 dives. Once I got him to stop flailing his arms and legs like he was drowning he became much more comfortable. I think he had a good time learning to dive...tho the trip is kind of whirl wind for him; Just after he got here we learned if the insurrection and the coup attempt here in Madagascar. Just when you thought is was safe to travel again... Oh well... we're not in Kansas anymore.

Reefs were pretty amazing. I did one night dive on a reef site called 007. We were at about 15 meters for 45 minutes at 3:30AM. About 5 meters off the bottom I noticed some squid;;;4-5 of them in a shoal. I swam up and they left quickly... but then one returned. I shined my torch on it. It was about 8-9 inches long without counting tentacles. It was maybe 1-2 feet in front of me. It curled up its tentacles and began this mesmerizing color change and feathering of its pectoral fins. It was an abdsolutely fantastic and otherworldly site. Then all of a sudden it rushed into my chest with the force of a slight blow, let go a swath of ink, and disappeared. It startled me so I jumped back aénd began laughing almost to spit out my regulator. Turning around I found most of my dive group of six right there watching the entire event. Certainly one of the highlights of my trip.

Back to Civilization as it were

February 15
After 6 weeks of rice and beans, a cyclone, strenuous acticity, social drama, and fantastic diving, we return to "modern Tulear" in the middle of political strife and projected internal turmoil in Madagascar. In Andavadoaka you hardly knew the outside world existed. Some photos: (Trying to upload but may not be able. Very slow connection)

This is the picture of the "pirate ship" at least it was in my mind. I came across it while walking thru the spiny forest. Over a sand dune and ther it was...unloading a group of men into canoes to go to shore. I felt I should hide in the bushes so they coul not catch me and enslave me...

Anyway I got in some 60 dives at various reefs around Andavadoaka. I tested and passed certification to do fish belts and benthic PIT's. Fish belts are where you lay a 20 metre tape on a section of reef then leqve for 5 minutes. After return you swim the tape and count type all the fish 5 metre wide by 5 metre high along the tape. Usually from 10 to 30 species and 25 to hundreds of fish. Takes about ten minutes to do a belt. Try to a

ccomplish two per dive.

Off to site tomorrow

All staff and volunteers are now here. There are 18 of us that will pile into thye back of a camion tomorrow at 8AM for a 12 hour trek to the site in Andavadoaka. Promises to be a very long hot day.

Kathy will appreciate that I printed the Serenity prayer and gave it to Kandice last evening after dinner. This morning she told me that her mother always asks her what she can do about things does not like. I think it helped and she seems much more content today.

As we are going to site in the AM for six weeks, I will only have access to sending e-mails via satellite phone. The site sends e-mails on Monday, and downloads incoming e-mails on Thursday. As such I will not be able to post to the blog until my return to Tulear on the 15th of Feb. I will e-mail update Kathy each week so she will have news of the goings on.

Hope winter is going well for all. Its hotter than Haites here!!
Steve

Photos

Photos I hope

Tulear Madagascar

Have made it to Tulear or Toliara as your globe may refer to it. A 1000km journey across some of the most amazing geography and living conditions I,ve seen; Met 5 group members:
Kandice - 21 - Toronto previous Newfoundland. On break from College, has applied to Royal Canadien Mounted police for work. Here to try to help others not fall in situation her father fell into: Newfoundland fisherman had to sell his boats due to strife in >maritime fishing industry.
Camilla - 18 - central London. character out of "to Sir With Love" Very young
Moira - 44 - Johannesburg SA here for only three weeks. on vacation trying to decide weather to continue working with her sister where there is family conflict in the sisters business.
Dan - 26 - Coventry England; Between jobs in programming. Going rto work for LandRover as service tech programmer
Mikhail - 35 - Mannheim Germany Involved in GIS and Digital Cartography. Here on a vacation to do something different rather than sit on a beach.

All have unique reasons for being here, that like me I am not sure they understand. At the beginning there was a rush for zeach to tell there story and find out why each is here. All seem to get along OK. The women are much more outspoken and assertive than the men. A bit whiny even at times. Should be an interesting six weeks;

Waiting in Tulear for two more staff members and two more volunteers. Should leave here by Monday AM. 12 hour ride in the back of a Camion right on the beach to go 150km. Will be fun to see how the personalities play out during that ride. I have been given the title of "Old Man".

The country side is similar to the American southwest. Open vistas, dry except for the thunderstorm that passes every afternoon as the heat builds. 3000meter rugged moutains.
The people burn as much vegetation as they can to increase the rain runoff for the rice paddies they have carved out of the valleys. GHrow rice, mais, casava, sweet potatoes. It is a very hard subsistance living. They live in Homemade red brick and stick homes in little family villages. A home may be 5X10 feet and 7 feet at the peak with a thatched roof. Cloth for windows and a rustic wood door. AQ bamboo fence around the outside at times;

Have seen Ring tailed Lemurs and heve gone into Isalo National park. Isalo is home to incredible sandstone erosion similar to the canyons of Arizona and New Mexico.

Food is passible not great. Have had Zebu most dinners with pomme frites or rice. Alot of coffee in AM and French Baguettes. Primarily food is remembrance of their time as a French colony.
Heat index is growing here in the South. At night it is upper 70,s in daytime 95 minimum. Sunscreen hat etc a must. No AC...but didn,t expect it tho some of my troupe did...makes me chuckle.

I miss Kathy but am having exactly the experience I had hoped for. Health and spirits great.
Having travelled more and experiences like Ken ya have prepared me for the "African" method of dointg things. Hurry up and wait. Fun to watch the frustrations of those that need structure.

Will try to download some photos, biut connection is slow and may not allow.
Cheers
Steve

Mon Francais et returner

Apres deux jours ma francai et returner. C,est un petite peux bien alors.
After two days my french has returned somewhat. It is funny how you adapt when you only have yourself to rely upon.

Spent most of yesterdqy catching up on sleep from the joureney over. Had a late lunch of zebu steack (actual spelling here) and frites; together with a THB Three Horses Beer. Similar to the beer in Kenya. Light pilsner. Lot of walking. The city is built on hills very much as in Europe. Up and down, up and down.

The architecture and gardens seem of a very western Europe nature, but have seen better days. Paint is needed, shutters are drawn, gardens seem unloved.

Mass transit appears to be a large mass of vans that have four or five rows of seats and a rte number in the front windshield. All are full to overflow and the doors are not closed. Some are seen to depart without the van so much as slowing down. The taxis are older Cirroen cars. Some even have the removed headlights like the old Stutz Bearcats; very cute and I suppose traditional.

Had a breakfast of coffee, butter, jam and that great French Baguette bread. Funny the AM bread is much lighter and flakier than the evening bread.

Tomorrow AM we leave for the overland journey. Have yet to meet any BV group members.
Will try to post some photos now, but was a problem yesterday.
Steve