A Day on the Indian Ocean

We reserved the boat for one day during our weeks stay to participate in the local specialty...world class sport fishing. Rising in the pre-dawn hours...I hurried to the waterfront with my camera to see if I could get some good shots of the sunrise over the Indian Ocean. I was met there by a fellow traveller and sportsman from Columbia. We chatted for a short time before a large flock of birds flew by. I shot a few pictures as we watched in wonder..."What do you think those are?" I asked. "Pterodactyls I think" was the reply.

We boarded the boat shortly after dawn and proceeded out several miles in calm seas. The captain baited several lines and the adventure had begun. Almost immediately we began catching 5-10 lb skip-jack tuna...almost as fast as we could get our lines in the water. What a ball...what a fighter...it could take several minutes to land one! Then the yelling began..."this is the bait you bastards! Hurry up!"....Holy shit! We thought this was great...what were we in for?

On we went into the deep. Thank heavens the seas were flat...I had been known to be seasick before. Fortunately I had mentioned this to the captain a day or so before. Told him I usually take Dramamine, but it seldom worked. He told me I had been taking it wrong. "Take a full dose the night before, then a 1/2 dose just before getting on the boat," he advised. This I did and was thrilled with the success. Not a bit of that queasy feeling! And what a glorious day...flat calm...hotter than Haites. The captain threaded one of the tuna on a very large hook...and we began trolling.

We trolled three lines at various lengths and depths behind the boat. Marlin will attack the closest and shallowest first generally it seems. This alerts the crew to be ready as they hook them on the middle line typically. And the way the set the hook is pretty cool...hang on...as they hit the throttles to full. We shared chances as we gor several hits, until we finally hooked into a big Black Marlin...and I mean big! It was Doug's turn in the seat...thank God! All hell broke out on the boat. First the captain floored the throttles to hool the fish...all the while yelling in Swahili at the two local mates. Doug was placed in the seat with the fighting belt on and hooked to the rod...not the boat...just the rod. Then the boat was reversed. As fast as we could go in reverse, the captain throttled, all the while yelling, "reel!" And reel Doug did. The water coming over the transom in massive waves as the boat backed up to the fish. The black mates standing either side of him as the water sent his Raybans awash yelling to reel in Swahili...it was all Earl and I could do not to get in the way as we laughed in hysterics. Doug was horrified. Within a few minutes the fish was at the back of the boat...about a 600 lb monster...and about as "green" as it could be...meaning it was still fresh...not worn or tired at all for the fight. The captain turned to Doug, "Keep it or tag it?" Doug looked at me and I shrugged. "Keep it," he said.

Now we are some six or ten or maybe twelve thousand miles from home. What in hell are we going to do with a six hundred pound fish? Well the fight was on. They let the fish go from the back of the boat and Doug proceeded to fight that fish for some three hours or so. At one point the line was almost straight down behind the boat. Doug stated, "I thought they were supposed to jump." Just about at that point a fish came out of the water maybe three hundred yards behind the boat. "Look, there's another one!" exclaimed Doug. We laughed so hard our sides ached. "Reel!" was yelled.

Well after three hours the fish "sounded"...meaning it went deep. Billfish are known to go to the bottom and bury their bill in the sea floor to get away. Whether that was what happened or whether a large predator shark attacked the weary fish, we'll never know. All we knew was we would not be returning to port with the black flag flying indicating a successful trip. Though for us it was right out of the picture books...but wait...a National Geographic moment was yet to be had.

We were now late coming back in as the fight lasted so long. The sun was now setting over Africa. Doug, Earl, and I took up positions on the bow of the boat as we returned, reliving the day and enjoying a beer. And in the distance some 200 yards in front...humpback whales began breaching in their hunt for food. Now I have seen some sights...but this beat all. Here we were, three travellers from New England, having just fought a world class sport fish, sitting on the bow of a 46' Bertram, having a beer, and watching the sun set over Africa while humpback whales breach all around us. It doesn't get any better than that!